Whiskey Review: Henry McKenna Bottled in Bond Single Barrel Bourbon
Introduction
We’re revisiting one of the most talked-about bourbons of the past decade: Henry McKenna Bottled-in-Bond Single Barrel Bourbon. This 100-proof, 10-year age-stated bourbon from Heaven Hill Distillery exploded in popularity after being named Best in Show Whiskey at the 2019 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. At the time, it was a $35 bottle beating out much older, pricier scotches, earning it a cult following and a massive price hike.
But what happens when a bottle that once cost $35 now retails for $65 or more? Does the whiskey itself hold up, or are we chasing nostalgia (and marketing hype)? After trying over 500 whiskeys since we first reviewed this bottle in Season 1, we decided it was time to revisit McKenna and give it a fresh look.
This review is taken from our episode "The Lion King (1994) / Henry McKenna 10-Year Single Barrel Bourbon." Click the link to listen to this review in audio format.
Nose
Brad: There’s a little bit of cherry on the opening. There’s caramel and vanilla, and it gets into a really nice peppery phase on the second and third nosing. I get a really nice, gentle peanut brittle that goes along with it. It’s a really pleasant nose.
Score: 7.5/10
Bob: Heaven Hill has just really nailed this mash bill. This is their standard high-rye mash bill, and I already love it. The rye is much softer, which brings out those dark cherry notes. It’s just a really good middle-of-the-road bourbon whiskey scent.
Score: 7.5/10
Taste
Brad: The peanut butter really takes the forefront at 100 proof. The viscosity isn’t quite where I would hope it would be, but the peanut butter flavors come through. There’s caramel, a little bit of salted popcorn; it’s a really pleasant bourbon to drink.
Score: 8/10
Bob: It doesn’t taste like regular store-bought peanut butter; it’s more like that natural peanut oil flavor. It coats the tongue but it’s not very thick. The spice comes through nicely, and it drinks a little hotter than I’d expect. For someone getting into bourbon and looking to try a 10-year or a single barrel, this is a perfect step up. It’s not super complex, but it’s nostalgic at this point.
Score: 8/10
Finish
Brad: That salted butter from the rye turns into a really nice freshly cracked black pepper flavor. The caramel matures into a burnt brown sugar on the finish. It’s really pleasant.
Score: 8/10
Bob: That cherry flavor turns into an almost Robitussin taste. There’s a little medicinal note, maybe from the barley. It doesn’t quite go sour, but it tempts itself with that. It’s long-lasting and fairly pleasant, but the weakest part of the pour.
Score: 7/10
Balance
Bob: This is a well-balanced whiskey. It knows what it is. You don’t need to line up around the liquor store to find it, but it’s a solid single barrel bourbon that should cost $40.
Score: 8/10
Brad: I think this offers some really great flavors. Nothing too complex, but it’s what you want from a 10-year single barrel.
Score: 7.5/10
Value
Brad: This bottle costs $65 in Ohio, and that’s in the typical range now for Henry McKenna. You might find it for $80 to $100 elsewhere, which is just ridiculous. At $35 this was a great value. At $65, I think it’s about $20 too expensive.
Score: 5/10
Bob: It doesn’t scream 'you should pay $65 for me.' You can get Wild Turkey Rare Breed or Old Forester 1920 for less, and I’d rather drink those. Maybe the 2019 stock was better, but this feels a little diluted now.
Score: 5/10
Final Scores
Bob: 35.5/50
Brad: 36/50
Average: 35.75/50
At Film & Whiskey, we use a 50-point scale where 35/50 is the threshold for recommending a pour at a bar or even grabbing a bottle. A 40 means we think it's great. A 45? That’s excellent. So with a 35.75 average, Henry McKenna Bottled-in-Bond lands right on the edge.
It’s a solid whiskey. You’re not getting a bad pour, but you're also paying a premium for a bottle that rode the wave of a five-year-old award. If you find it closer to $45, it's a great pick. At $65 or more? Try it at a bar first.